Days 3 & 4
¡salud!
Rick Steves tours don’t rush from city to city. They detour into the unexpected—and those detours became some of our favorite moments.
At a family-run winery, we tasted wines aged in barrels over 100 years old. Through the bus windows, olive trees stretched endlessly across the countryside, silver-green under the sun.
During longer stretches there will be stops to break up the journey. Rest stops become their own place of interest with both locals and travelers mingling and enjoying an espresso or two. Today’s rest stop, a converted train station, featured a fitness trail on paved over train tracks. I needed a quick walk and coffee after a hearty lunch and wine tasting!
The Land of liquid gold
Úbeda itself is the attraction on this 2 night stop. Filled with Spanish Renaissance architecture and preserved buildings, it feels like being in a time machine going back in time.
I could hardly wait to get out and about. Especially to check out the pottery store next door to our hotel. Our orientation walking tour ended at the Iglesia de San Lorenzo UNESCO site. This church had seen better days. So why did this old, dilapidated church, become so significant? Built in the 1300’s it is a one stop shop for many different architecture styles. An old building now divulging its secrets with every archeological find in its walls and floors.
The church’s event team hosted our Tapas Tuesday this evening. So much fun to sit along the ancient ramparts, having a glass of wine, tasty treats, great conversation and taking in the spectacular views.
exploring úbeda and becoming an olive oil connoisseur
Our next local guide, a smart and enthusiastic young woman, led us through the narrow streets to the Synagogue del Agua.
For hundreds of years no one knew of its existence until 2007. A developer discovered the remains of this medieval synagogue during a building inspection. He chose restoration over development. How cool to see this ancient synagogue so painstakingly restored.
Continuing on our tour, next stop the Holy Chapel of the Savior, considered to be a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance design. One room in particular created laughs for the group. The Sacristy. Where statues remain frozen in time expressing vice or virtue. I discover our group is filled with comedians!
In Úbeda, we found a pottery studio run by a father and son. Watching them shape clay by hand reminded me how deeply craftsmanship still matters here. We bought cookies from cloistered nuns who sold them from behind a wall.
Jim and I walked up and down the streets finding fun little spots to just sit, enjoy ice cream with wine and taking it all in. Friends gathering, church bells tolling, and the sound of music generated by a nearby school created a truly magical moment.
Leaving Úbeda, we arrive to the Picuala Olive Oil Cooperative. We visited an olive grove then to the processing plant itself. We learned that 40% of the world’s olive oil comes from southern Spain. This Jaén region of Spain boasts 60 - 70 million olive trees! We tasted oils like wine and realized we’d never look at our grocery store bottle the same way again. What´s in your pantry?!
